sparrow horse: From the Salmon to the Selway

I sit in a bar in Tekoa, Washington, just west of the Idaho border. I've arrived here via some walking, some trailering, via some hooves, via some sweat, all the while negotiating maps and rivers and relying on an ever faithful GPS (thank goodness). I did have a riding companion, Gena Howell, but she has since departed, back to Teton Valley, back to her garden and her business- in other words, back to the real world. Oh yeah, that place- the real world. (Boy, I hope I know more about what that means some time soon). I'm still due for a shower, a chance to officially clean my clothes and by officially, I mean not in a pan. Lola is tied to a shady tree just outside and my ponies are swishing their tails at the bugs down in the Iron Horse Rodeo Grounds. Tekoa is a friendly farming town and they get long riders that come through every once in awhile on the John Wayne Pioneer Trail, which ends here. The trail follows the Old Milwaukee Railroad bed and I plan to follow it 290 miles, west across Washington to Easton. I leave tomorrow morning at 5:00 am. I'm trying to beat the heat. The elevation of Tekoa is 2,500 feet, and I'm only losing feet each day. As I see it, the only time to ride is early when the sun's heat is only enough to shed some light on the trail. I already miss my riding partner and her pup Scout. I remember that forsaken feeling from my first year of travel, each goodbye is another heartbreak. Riding alone can feel like sailing out to sea in a canoe without an oar. But then riding alone can also send me home as in the home that sits like a homestead in my heart. On the other hand, I feel lucky. I feel grateful that I get a chance to peer into the rural towns and some of the lives of the citizens who live "out here", who become my friends as I wander west.

The pictures below are from the last two weeks as I traveled in the wilderness with Gena, Scout, her mare Willow and Elvira, her pack horse along with my gang- Lola, Babushka, and Sweetheart.

Alley in Tekoa


Lola and I scouting for the John Wayne Pioneer Trail near the Iron Horse Rodeo grounds in Tekoa. Apparently the trail goes over or somewhere near that old truss-bridge.

Gena's mare Willow steals the shot.

This guy popped up over the ridge just after we got started on the Salmon corridor. My first thought was that I had accidentally pressed the emergency button on the SPOT, then I thought we were in trouble, then we saw his bucket pop over the ridge and we realized he was dropping down to get water right next to us. Needless to say, it was exciting. It was definitely a "hold your horses" moment.

The side hill climb off the Salmon. We gained 3000 feet in about 6 miles. Babushka is already orienting herself back in the direction of Teton Valley.

Fires on the horizon.

An awesome cowgirl!

A dorky cowgirl.

The Magruder corridor surrounded by fires. Somehow it's beautiful- the smoke creates a permanent sunset hue.

Babushka at Burnt Knob Lakes. The most relaxed you might ever see this Morgan.

Gena with her $30 "snishin'" pole. Thinking about catching us some dinner.

Scout. Sweet, sweet Scout on the top of Meadow Creek.

The gorgeous meadow at Meadow Creek.

A wild, mountain going brigade of boys, the Hunter's. Our first friends on the trail.

Dawson and his puppy Buddy

Carson, Dawson and their dad, Darin, and their summer chalet.

Idaho is delicious!

Drive through huckleberry breakfast.

Orb spider (I think). We know it as the spider who builds his web across the trail. I can't tell you how many of these spider webs I ripped through with my face.

Fire sun

Bad Ass Gena bringing back the runaways, who crossed the river and ran a mile straight up the mountain in the general direction of Teton Valley. It was all Babushka's fault!